Visitors to Awash National Park

The most important and simplest way people can support Awash National Park is to visit it. And despite the current challenges facing the park, there are still good opportunities to encounter wildlife and to view the spectacular scenery.

Scenery

Dominating the park's skyline is the 2007m high dormant volcano, Mt Fantelle, a product of the rifting process for which the Rift Valley is named. Massive lava flows from Fantelle, the last of which was over 200 years ago, coursed through the park leaving lava fields and cliffs mixed with bare rock and dry, flat areas bordering the savannah.

At the northern edge of the park, lying at the base of one such old lava flow, are the Filoha Hot Springs; a green oasis of tall doum palm trees surrounding a series of translucent pools culminating in a beautiful turquoise 43 degrees Celsius swimming hole.

Marking the park?s southern border is the Awash River, which spills over a 110m wide waterfall into the head of the Awash Gorge. Some of this spectacular scenery, along with the resident hamadryas baboons, will feature in the primate episode of BBC?s upcoming natural history series entitled ?Life?, to be broadcast in 2009.

Wildlife

There are at least 75 recorded mammal species in the park, although not all are regularly encountered. The most common mammal species include beisa oryx, Soemmering?s gazelle, lesser kudu, dik dik, warthog, hamadryas and anubis baboons, vervet monkeys, black backed and common jackals, and black-tipped and white tailed mongoose, Abyssinian hares and rock hyrax. Rarely seen, but often heard at night are spotted and striped hyena, various bat species and the occasional lion, cheetah and leopard.

Awash National Park is one of the premium places in Ethiopia to see birds. There are 452 species of bird in the park ranging from waterbirds such as egrets, kingfishers, pelicans, hamerkops and ibis; grassland birds like the kori bustard, vultures and secretary birds and; bushland birds such as Abyssinian ground hornbill, weaver, bee-eaters, guinea fowl and sunbirds. The endemic yellow-throated serin and the near-endemic sombre rock chat can be found on the slopes of Mt Fantelle.

There are 43 recorded reptile species in the park. The most commonly seen are leopard tortoises, crocodiles, skinks and water monitors.

Sights and Wildlife Drives

All of the roads in the park are unsealed and 4WDs are recommended. That said, with a bit of careful driving it is possible to visit the southern section of the park during the dry season in a 2WD, just watch out for deep potholes. The best times for wildlife drives are early in the morning and late in the afternoon; it is at these times that wildlife tend to be most active, nocturnal and diurnal animals may be present, and there are fewer pastoralists to disturb the wildlife.

Beginning at Amareti Entrance Gate, the main wildlife viewing circuit, which takes 2-4 hours to complete, heads 10km south through dense acacia scrub to the park headquarters, amongst the scrub are dik dik, warthog, anubis baboons, lesser kudu, and a variety of birds including sandgrouse and rollers. At HQ is a small, moderately informative museum with a few animal displays. Also at HQ is a caged lion that in 2007 was rescued from illegal private ownership; lacking all survival skills, the lion awaits rehousing at a wildlife sanctuary to be built near Addis Ababa.

Several hundred metres to the southeast of HQ are the impressive Awash Falls. The falls, which flow year round, can be viewed from a lookout at the top or, by heading down a short flight of stairs, at the base. Upstream of the falls is a narrow band of dense riverine forest containing colobus and vervet monkeys, bee-eaters, hoopoes and barbets, and the shaded Gotu camping grounds. Crocodiles basking in the sun and a variety of water birds are regular features along the river edge. The road leading to the camping grounds continues west into some good wildlife spotting areas; however, the road is rarely maintained and often blocked by fallen branches.

A kilometre before HQ is an eastward heading road passing through dense acacia forest to the Kereyou Lodge 13km away. Perched on the edge of the 150m deep Awash Gorge, the view from the Lodge restaurant terrace is absolutely superb and worth enjoying over a cold drink from the bar. A short stroll to the disused Lodge swimming pool provides another impressive perspective of the gorge. While at the lodge, keep an eye out for hybrid baboons that frequent the area; the range of the anubis and hamadryas baboons overlaps along the Awash Gorge and the two species interbreed producing viable hybrids with characteristics of both species. Interestingly, given that the social system of the two baboon species is completely different, the behaviour of the hybrids most represents the parent species they happen to look most like.

From the Kereyou Lodge, the road loops 12kms back to the Amareti entrance gate via the grassy Illala Sala Plains, where oryx, gazelle, jackals, bustards, vultures and weavers are regularly seen. On the way back through the grassy plains keep an eye out for an unmarked eastward heading road; this 11km extension offers extra wildlife spotting opportunities in grassy plains and broken bush before looping back around to reconnect with the main wildlife circuit.

To the north of Amareti Entrance Gate and the Dire Dawa road is the 30km drive through thick acacia bush containing the occasional lesser kudu, dik dik, hamadryas baboon and guinea fowl to the Filoha Hot Springs. Aside from the fantastic hot springs, near the base of the cliff there are some picturesque pools with palm backdrops containing a range of water birds and 2-3m long fish-eating crocodiles. Filoha is home to the Hamadryas Baboon Research Project whose focal animals visit the area regularly throughout the day and often spend their nights on the cliff. Waterbuck are often seen at sunrise and sunset, while warthog are present day round. In and around Filoha are large piles of rocks; these were built by the Italians during their occupation of Ethiopia and are rumoured to be either bunkers, munition dumps or buried loot. A return trip to Filoha takes a minimum of two and half hours.

The other main attraction 50km to the northwest of Amareti Entrance Gate is Mt Fantelle, which can be approached by vehicle from the southwest, via Metehara and Lake Beseka, or, if beginning at Filoha, from the northwest via Sobure. While it is possible to drive to the very edge of the crater, the last 3km of road has some very rough patches and, depending on how much love the owner has for their vehicle, some choose to walk the last section. For those with more energy and a head for warmer climates, it is possible to drive north of Metehara to Sogedo camp and walk up the southern side of the volcano; special arrangements may be needed for an additional guide to show the way. Whichever option is chosen, allow a minimum of six hours for a return trip to Fantelle. For those who do make the journey, the view from the edge of 3.5km wide crater is more than sufficient reward; aside from the cool air and panoramic view of Awash valley, also on offer are birds of prey riding the thermal updrafts, hamadryas baboons and the occasional mountain reedbuck and klipspringer roaming the crater edge, and steam rising from the 350m deep crater. The endemic yellow-throated serin and the near-endemic sombre rock chat may also be spotted on Fantelle?s slopes. On your way back stop for a look at Lake Beseka, a spring-fed, slightly acidic lake growing at a rate that is alarming the residents of Metehara. Around the edges of Beseka are bizarre fields of chunky lava rocks and a number of lava tubes.

Eating and Sleeping

There are now two accommodation options in the park. There is the new Awash Falls Lodge, which is positioned so that it overlooks the Falls. The lodge offers 12 shaded view points to enjoy the tranquillity of the falls and the wildlife moving below. Inspired by Ethiopian tradition and constructed with local materials, the lodge has an intimate feel to it. The eight comfortable cottages come with king size or twin beds, private veranda, full bathroom, electricity points, mosquito nets, ceiling fans and are serviced daily. Also on offer are a swimming pool, conference facilities and a two storey fully licensed bar and restaurant. For more details, telephone: +251 221 191 182 or +251 221 191 183 (Off.), or email: etta@ethionet.et.

The other option is the Kereyou lodge. Available are 20 caravans (200birr/double) that have seen better days and need to be booked in advance through the Ras Hotel chain in Addis Ababa. However, it is worth mentioning that the view from the Kereyou Lodge is quite special and well worth admiring over a cold drink on the veranda of the fully licensed bar and restaurant.

Those on a tight budget may be better served staying in either of the nearby towns of Metehara (14 km) or Awash Seba (16km).

There are camping areas at Gotu and Filoha; the former is well shaded and has toilets, tables and chairs, while the latter currently has no amenities other than warm baths and a small, friendly Cafe selling cheap drinks. At both sites, loads of campfire wood can be bought from the park scouts; price ranges from 30-50birr depending on quantity. There is a lot to be said in favour of camping in the park; it is during the twilight and night hours, when the park truly belongs to the wildlife, that encounters with less conspicuous animals are most likely.